EARTH MAMMA Vintage Uzbeki Coat
Dress for the RE'LOVE'UTION
whatever this brave new world throws at us we are going to need something to wear!
These coats are all constructed from panels of vintage hand embroidery stitched in the 1970s and 80s in Uzbekistan. They are all completely unique, one-of-a-kind pieces.
The panels are called 'Suzani's' meaning needlework and they were originally made in individual homes and created for the dowries of the daughters of that family. Many of them may have been worked on by more than one woman on individual panels and then sewn together at the end to form a bigger panel. Sometimes the work could take years, starting when the daughter reaches adolescence and stitched until the time that she is ready to get married and take her dowry with her to her Grooms home. The Suzani's were used for various purposes in the marital home such as bedspreads and home decor and also sometimes made into coats. The coats in this collection have been made more recently, from hunted and gathered vintage fabrics.
Metaphors of weaving and stitching are some of my favourites. The physical act of the warp and the weft intertwining or the needle going in and out round and round echo so beautifully the way we are all interconnected by our stories and the warp and the weft of this life.
These 'Suzani''s were stitched with the intention of weaving the magic of a beautiful future into the fabric. Each stitch a prayer of good wishes made from the heart. Each stitch hopes and dreams threaded together with love. The delicate work of hearts and hands. I personally have had a little love story with each one of them. They are all incredibly beautiful in their own way.
They are both rustic and delicately crafted. The stitching of the coat construction is rustic, some are lined, some are not. Most inside seams are not overclocked. But the Hand Embroidery is exquisitely detailed. They are a straight boxy fit. Some have ties at the front, some do not. The arms are often quite short, but I think this is a good thing. Bracelet sleeves are flattering, they bring the waist in and you can wear a colourful jumper or cardigan underneath which I always like doing anyway. Some of the sleeves have more colorful, bright and contrasting embroidery trims, I personally fold mine inwards on the one I wear, but my friend Suzy ( the model with the orange hair in these photos) loves the contrast of them. I haven't tampered with any of them, I am trusting each will find it's perfect person and that there is something to float all boats. The coats are perfect in their imperfections. I will try to point out in the notes if one has significant damage but remember OLD IS GOLD, each piece has minor signs of wear over time and this is part of their beauty and individual magic.
I have to recommend Dry Cleaning as each piece is individual
MEASUREMENTS IN CM:
Length Top to Bottom: 108
Half Chest ( measured when coat closed): 64
Shoulder to shoulder: 50
Sleeve Length: 45
Arm Hole ( measured flat): 27
brown corduroy, unlined, contrast black cuff
the stars make me think of windmill toys being held in the wind spinning dreams into infinity